Collection: Network Cable

Which network cable do you actually need?

Most PC builders grab whatever cable came in the router box, and for a lot of setups that's fine. But the jump between Cat5e, Cat6, Cat6A and Cat8 is about signal integrity and headroom, not just a bigger number on the packaging. Cat5e is rated to 100 MHz and handles gigabit comfortably over a normal home run. It will also do 2.5GbE for typical lengths, which matters because 2.5GbE ports are now standard on mid-range Motherboards. Cat6 lifts the rating to 250 MHz with tighter twists and often a spline separator, which cuts crosstalk between pairs. That makes it the sweet spot for most gaming and work desktops.

Cat6A is rated to 500 MHz and carries 10GbE for the full 100 metres. The cable is thicker, usually shielded, and stiffer to route. Cat8 goes to 2000 MHz and 25/40GbE, but only up to about 30 metres, and it's aimed at data centre switch-to-server links. Diminishing returns hit hard after Cat6A. Your internet plan, your switch ports and your NIC are the real ceilings, and a Cat8 lead into a gigabit port gives you a gigabit connection with a nicer jacket.

For a typical build, go Cat6 for runs under 30 metres, Cat6A if you're future-proofing a wall run or have a 10GbE NAS, and skip Cat8 unless you have the switch and NIC to use it.

Upgrading and technical nuances

The first trap is conductor material. Proper cable uses solid or stranded pure copper. Cheap "copper clad aluminium" (CCA) cable looks identical but has higher resistance, snaps more easily at the crimp and runs hot under PoE. If a listing doesn't say "pure copper" or "bare copper", assume the worst. Conductor gauge matters too. 24 AWG is typical for Cat6 and Cat6A, while very thin 28 AWG patch leads save space but lose a bit on attenuation and PoE capability, so keep those for short desk runs.

Solid core versus stranded is the next decision. Solid copper is cheaper per metre, holds its signal better over long distances and suits permanent in-wall installs, but it fatigues if flexed repeatedly. Stranded copper suits patch leads that get plugged, unplugged and bent behind a desk or inside a Computer Cases cable channel.

Shielding is often misunderstood. UTP is unshielded and perfectly fine in most homes. Shielded types (F/UTP, S/FTP) help where cable runs parallel to mains wiring or near heavy interference, but only if the shield is properly grounded through shielded jacks. A shielded cable in unshielded sockets gains you very little.

Cat7 is a quirk. It isn't a recognised TIA standard and uses non-RJ45 connectors natively, so the Cat7 patch leads you see with RJ45 ends are really Cat6A-class cables with a marketing label. Look for solid Cat6A from StarTech, Cable Matters or UGREEN instead.

On the gear side, a 2.5GbE or 10GbE link only works if every part supports it. That means your NIC or motherboard, the cable, the switch or router, and the other end. Pairing quality leads with a TP-Link multi-gig switch or router from our Networking range is the easiest way to check that chain. If you're building a new rig around a current CPUs & Processors platform with 2.5GbE onboard, a decent Cat6 lead is all you need to use it properly.

Practical things to check

Measure the real route, not the straight line. Add extra for corners, wall penetrations and slack at both ends. Cat6A tops out at 100 metres for the permanent link plus patch leads, and exceeding that causes dropped packets rather than a clean failure, which is a nightmare to diagnose.

Check the connector boots. Snagless boots can be fat, and in a tight rack or behind a wall-mounted Monitors setup they stop the cable sitting flush. Slim boots help with dense switch ports. Latch tabs also break off easily on cheap molded plugs, so look for ones with a protective hood.

Flat cables are tempting for under-door or carpet runs. They're usually Cat6 with thinner, closely spaced conductors, so they suit short hops but aren't ideal for long runs or PoE. Round cables handle bends better and shed heat more evenly.

PoE matters if you power access points or cameras. Higher-wattage PoE heats bundled cable, and CCA copes poorly with that. For in-wall installs, check the jacket rating. PVC is common, while LSZH (low smoke zero halogen) is better where fire safety is a concern. If you're pulling cable through walls, also check local rules about licensed cabling work before you start.

For desk cable management, keep network leads separate from the bundle of power cables from your Power Supplies and don't coil excess cable tightly. Tight bends exceed the minimum bend radius, which is about four times the cable's diameter, and degrade performance. If you also need other leads, the Cables & Connectors category covers them.

Brands and local warranty

Reliable names for patch leads include TP-Link, Ubiquiti, StarTech, Belkin, UGREEN, Cable Matters and Alogic. For bulk cable, look for recognised brands that publish test certification rather than unbranded drums. Pure copper bulk cable from established cabling suppliers is worth the extra cost for in-wall use, as it's expensive to redo.

Warranty on cables is rarely long, but local support still matters. A genuine Australian reseller means you're covered by Australian Consumer Law, so a faulty product can be repaired, replaced or refunded without chasing an overseas seller. That counts for gear like Computers, switches and routers, where a dodgy cable can look like a hardware fault. Buying from local stock also reduces your odds of picking up counterfeit "Cat8" cable with Cat5e inside.

Frequently asked questions

Q: Is Cat6 good enough for gaming?

Yes. Gaming traffic uses very little bandwidth, and what you notice is latency and stability. A good Cat5e or Cat6 lead gives virtually identical in-game ping. Upgrading mostly helps with large file transfers to a NAS.

Q: Will Cat8 make my internet faster?

No. Your internet speed is set by your plan and your router's WAN port. Cat8 only helps on local links faster than 10GbE, over short distances, with matching switches and NICs.

Q: Can I use a Cat6A cable on a gigabit port?

Absolutely. Ethernet is backwards compatible, so the link will negotiate to the speed of the slowest component. It'll work, and it'll be ready if you upgrade your switch later.

Q: Does cable length affect speed?

Within the 100 metre limit, no. Beyond that, signal attenuation and errors cause retransmits and dropouts. For longer runs, add a switch midway or use fibre.

Q: Is shielded cable always better?

Not necessarily. Shielding helps in electrically noisy spaces, but only when it's grounded end to end. In most homes, quality UTP Cat6 or Cat6A performs the same and is easier to terminate and route.