Collection: KVM & AV Switches

Which kvm or av switche do you actually need?

Most PC builders land on a KVM because they have two machines and one desk, such as a gaming rig and a work laptop, or a main tower and a test bench. A KVM shares one keyboard, mouse and display set across several computers. The more general AV switches (the category often searched as "av switche") just route video and audio sources to a screen or TV, with no USB peripheral handling. If you only need to swap a console and a streaming box onto one HDMI input, you want an AV switch. If you want one keyboard and mouse driving two PCs, you want a KVM.

Entry-level units are usually HDMI or DisplayPort 1.2/1.4 boxes with USB 2.0 for peripherals, simple button switching and passive signal handling. They are fine for 1080p or 1440p at 60Hz and basic office work. The trouble starts at high refresh rates, where the switch chip has to pass a lot more bandwidth. Sweet-spot units add proper EDID emulation, hotkey switching, USB 3.x hubs and support for 4K60 or 1440p at 144Hz and above. EDID emulation matters because it makes each PC think the monitor is always connected, so your windows don't shuffle around every time you switch.

Enthusiast units go further, with HDMI 2.1 or DisplayPort 1.4 and 2.1 bandwidth for 4K120 and above, VRR passthrough, dual-monitor support, USB-C or Thunderbolt inputs and sometimes KVM-over-IP. The cost climbs fast, and the returns diminish quickly if you only run a single 1440p panel. Pay for bandwidth only if your Monitors can use it.

Upgrading and technical nuances

The biggest spec trap is bandwidth versus the number on the box. HDMI 2.1 full bandwidth is 48Gbps, but plenty of switches labelled "4K" only handle 18Gbps HDMI 2.0, which tops out around 4K60. DisplayPort units often support 4K144 only by using DSC (Display Stream Compression), and a switch that does not pass DSC cleanly will drop you to a lower refresh rate. If you run a current Graphics Cards / GPU pushing high-refresh 4K, check that the switch explicitly lists your resolution, refresh rate and HDR or VRR support together, not just individually.

USB is the other half. A basic KVM shares a keyboard and mouse using a small USB 2.0 hub, which suits typical peripherals. High polling rate gaming mice (4000Hz and 8000Hz) can misbehave through cheap hubs because of shared bandwidth and emulation chips, so many gamers plug the mouse receiver straight into a dedicated port or use a switch with a separate gaming-grade mouse path. If you plan to share a USB DAC, webcam or external SSD, look for USB 3.x switching rather than just keyboard and mouse emulation.

For benchmark names, look at ATEN and StarTech.com for dependable mainstream and business-grade KVMs, TESmart for popular multi-port and high-refresh units, and Belkin or UGREEN for simpler USB-C and desktop-friendly switches. Cable Matters is worth a look for compact HDMI and DisplayPort switches. Thunderbolt and USB-C docking-style switches sit at the premium end and suit laptop users who want one cable for video, data and charging. If you are tidying up a rack or home lab, pair this with Networking gear, or look at TP-Link for the network switching side of the setup.

Your platform matters less than you'd think, since KVMs are mostly platform-agnostic. Boards on AM5 and LGA1851 expose HDMI, DisplayPort and USB-C video outputs, and what matters is which port you're feeding. Make sure you are plugging into the GPU, not the Motherboards rear I/O, when you've got a dedicated card installed.

Practical things to check before buying

Start with cables, because most "bad KVM" complaints turn out to be cable problems. A passive HDMI 2.1 or DisplayPort run gets flaky past about two to three metres at high bandwidth, and every switch adds another connection point. Use certified Ultra High Speed HDMI or VESA-certified DisplayPort cables, and keep runs short. Browse Cables & Connectors for the right lengths, and remember most KVMs need captive or included USB cables, so check how many each port uses.

Next is power. Some switches are bus-powered from USB, but many 4K and multi-monitor units come with an external adapter, and the proper one matters. An underpowered switch causes random black screens and dropped devices. If you power the KVM from a PC USB port, that PC being off can leave the switch dead. Make sure the plug is always live, and if you're building a tidy setup, size your Power Supplies and wall power strip so you have a spare outlet for the adapter. Modern ATX Power Supply units with 12V-2x6 connectors won't affect this directly, but good clean power across the desk does.

Think about physical fit. Desktop KVMs run from palm-sized boxes to wide metal chassis, and ports can be on the back, the side or both. Check rear clearance if it's going on a monitor shelf, and check where the cables exit if it'll sit behind a desk. Inside a PC, Computer Cases with front or top USB-C can pair with a KVM, but the case I/O should not become your only link. Heat is rarely a problem, though larger multi-port metal units run warm, so don't bury them in a cupboard. If they're near your tower, good airflow from Fans, Heatsinks & Cooling helps keep the whole desk area comfortable.

Finally, check operating system support. Mac, Windows and Linux machines can behave differently with emulated keyboards, especially for media keys and display scaling. HDCP can also block some protected content when sources are switched.

Brands and local warranty

Reputable names include ATEN, StarTech.com, TESmart, Belkin, UGREEN and Cable Matters, each with different strengths. ATEN and StarTech.com lean towards business reliability, TESmart towards value and feature count, and Belkin towards polished consumer usability.

Genuine Australian warranty matters because KVMs fail in annoying, intermittent ways. Under Australian Consumer Law, you have rights if a product isn't of acceptable quality, and a local retailer or distributor makes that process far easier than shipping a box overseas. Buying from a local reseller also ensures you get the correct power adapter for our plugs and voltage.

Frequently asked questions

Will a KVM reduce my monitor's refresh rate or quality?

It can if the switch doesn't support your resolution and refresh rate together. A good KVM matching your display's bandwidth will pass the signal cleanly. Always check the listed maximum for HDMI or DisplayPort, plus HDR and VRR support.

Do I need a KVM or an AV switch?

If you only need to swap video and audio sources, such as consoles to a TV, an AV switch is simpler and cheaper. If you want to share a keyboard, mouse and maybe USB devices between computers, you want a KVM.

Can I use a KVM with a gaming mouse?

Yes, but high polling rate mice can be fussy. Look for a KVM with a gaming-friendly USB path, or connect the mouse receiver directly and share only the keyboard.

Does cable quality really matter?

Yes, especially at 4K high refresh. Use certified cables and keep them short. A weak cable can cause flicker, dropouts or a fallback to lower resolutions.

Can I run two monitors through a KVM?

Yes, but you need a dual-monitor model with enough bandwidth per output. Check that it supports extended desktop rather than mirrored output, and that each port handles your monitor's resolution and refresh rate.