Collection: Headsets & Microphones

Which headset or microphone do you actually need?

Most PC builders get the headsets & microphones decision backwards. They fixate on "7.1 surround" or RGB, when the things that change how it sounds and how your mates hear you are driver quality, microphone capsule type and how the audio gets into the PC.

Entry-tier headsets (roughly the Logitech G335 or HyperX Cloud Stinger class) use 40mm neodymium drivers, a basic electret boom mic and a 3.5mm or simple USB connection. They sound fine for voice chat and casual gaming, but the mic is usually narrow in bandwidth and picks up keyboard noise. Sweet-spot headsets like the HyperX Cloud II and Cloud III, Razer BlackShark V2 or SteelSeries Arctis Nova 1 and 3 get better tuned drivers, firmer headband construction, a cleaner mic and often a USB sound card. That last part matters, because the DAC and amp inside are tuned to the drivers rather than relying on whatever your motherboard provides. Enthusiast lines like the Arctis Nova Pro, Audeze Maxwell or Corsair Virtuoso add planar magnetic drivers, lower distortion, dual-wireless and swappable batteries. The returns diminish quickly there unless you listen critically or spend hours a day wearing them.

Standalone microphones are a different jump. A USB condenser like the Blue Yeti, HyperX QuadCast or Rode NT-USB picks up detail but also your room. A dynamic mic like the Samson Q2U, Shure MV7 or Elgato Wave DX rejects background noise far better, which suits untreated bedrooms and noisy mechanical keyboards. Condensers reward quiet, treated rooms. Dynamics reward close speaking distance.

Upgrading and technical nuances

The wireless decision is mostly about latency. Bluetooth typically adds 150ms or more using SBC or AAC, and the mic often drops to a narrow, low-quality call profile. A proprietary 2.4GHz dongle sits around 20 to 30ms and keeps mic quality intact. If you game, you want the dongle. Newer LC3 and low-latency Bluetooth modes are improving, but a dongle is still the safer pick for competitive play.

Wired and USB headsets bypass your onboard audio, so it is a sensible choice if you are building on a budget motherboard with a modest codec. Analogue 3.5mm headsets depend heavily on the board's audio implementation, and a noisy layout can introduce hiss or electrical whine from the GPU. Higher impedance headphones, such as the Audio-Technica ATH-M50x with a separate mic or Beyerdynamic DT series, need a decent amp to reach proper volume. Check for a TRRS combo jack too, since a single 4-pole plug will not work in a split mic and headphone port without an adaptor.

For mics, the XLR route (Rode PodMic, Shure SM58 or AT2020 with an interface) gives you upgradeable preamps and no driver issues, but it costs more and takes more desk space. USB mics are plug-and-play, typically 24-bit at 48kHz, which is plenty for streaming and calls. Higher sample rates mostly inflate file sizes. Polar patterns matter too: cardioid for solo use, omnidirectional or bidirectional only if you actually need them.

Voice chat also depends on your connection. A solid wired link or decent Networking gear, such as a TP-Link router or switch, prevents the choppy audio people often blame on the headset.

Practical things to check before buying

Check the physical fit first. Clamp force, ear cup depth and padding matter more than specs if you wear glasses or have larger ears. Leatherette pads isolate better but run hot, while velour or fabric breathes but leaks more sound. Weight above about 350g gets tiring over long sessions.

For USB devices, count your ports. Many mics and DACs prefer a direct motherboard rear I/O port rather than a cheap front panel header or an unpowered hub, which can cause dropouts. If your Computer Cases front panel only offers one USB port, a USB-C headset dongle can occupy it. A short extension from Cables & Connectors helps with dongles that need line of sight for stable 2.4GHz range, as a rear port tucked behind the case can hurt reception.

On desks, measure boom arm clearance. A mic arm needs a stable edge to clamp onto (typically 15 to 60mm thickness) and enough room around your Monitors so the capsule does not sit in front of the screen. A shock mount and pop filter will do more for clarity than any software.

Finally, check platform support. Some headsets need companion software for EQ and mic gain, and some features only work with the vendor's dongle. If you also play on console, confirm the dongle is supported there. Battery life claims are usually quoted with lighting off and at moderate volume, so expect somewhat less in real use.

Brands and local warranty

For headsets, the brands to look for are HyperX, Logitech G, SteelSeries, Razer, Corsair, Audeze and Sennheiser. For microphones, there is Rode, Shure, Blue, Elgato, Audio-Technica, Samson and HyperX. These all have established support and spare parts like replacement pads, cables and dongles.

Genuine Australian warranty matters more than most people think. Headset hinges, cables and batteries are the usual failure points, and under Australian Consumer Law you are entitled to remedies for faulty products. A locally supplied unit means you deal with a local RMA rather than shipping overseas or fighting a grey import seller. Keep the invoice, and avoid listings without a clear local supplier.

Frequently asked questions

Is a headset with a good mic better than a separate microphone?

For convenience, yes. A decent headset mic is consistent in distance and fine for voice chat. If you stream, make content or take lots of calls, a dedicated dynamic mic with open-back or closed-back headphones sounds noticeably clearer and gives you more control.

Do I need an amp or DAC for my headset?

Most gaming headsets do not, especially USB or wireless ones with a built-in DAC. You might want one for high-impedance studio headphones or if your board's onboard audio is noisy.

USB or XLR for a microphone?

USB is simpler and works well for most people. XLR is better if you want to upgrade preamps, use a mixer or move to a more advanced setup later.

Will a wireless headset lag in games?

A 2.4GHz dongle is effectively imperceptible for most players. Standard Bluetooth is the one that introduces noticeable delay, particularly for audio cues in fast shooters.

Why does my mic pick up my keyboard so much?

Condenser mics are very sensitive and pick up everything in the room. Switching to a dynamic mic, moving it closer to your mouth, lowering the gain and using a boom arm away from the desk surface will all reduce it.