Collection: Edifier

Which Edifier setup do you actually need?

Most PC builders spend weeks agonising over a GPU and then plug a $20 pair of speakers into the rear jack. Edifier is the brand that fixes that without asking for studio-monitor money, but the lineup is wide enough that it pays to understand what actually changes between tiers.

At the entry level you have compact USB or 3.5mm desktop speakers, like the smaller Edifier M-series and the lower-powered gaming models. They typically use 2 to 3 inch full-range drivers and small Class D amps pushing single-digit watts RMS per channel. The cabinets are tiny, so bass rolls off early, often around 80 to 100Hz, and the sound can get boxy when you push the volume. They suit a small desk and low-volume use.

The sweet spot is the 4-inch 2.0 bookshelf class, such as the R1280T, R1280DB and R1700BT, or the MR4 if you want a proper near-field monitor. The bigger woofer and larger cabinet volume move the bass extension down towards 60Hz, and the dedicated tweeter (usually a silk dome) means highs aren't being handled by the same cone as the mids. That separation is what gives you a clean, less fatiguing sound. Power is typically 40 to 70W RMS, which is plenty for a desk.

If you want real low end, the 2.1 route (the S350DB for example) adds a ported subwoofer, which takes the heavy bass load off the satellites and lets them stay clean at higher volumes. At the enthusiast end, the S3000 Pro-style models use planar magnetic tweeters and more advanced DSP and digital inputs. A planar diaphragm is lighter and moves more uniformly than a dome, so you get better transient detail, but it only pays off if your room and source are good enough to reveal it. Diminishing returns hit hard past the 4-inch bookshelf tier unless you're listening critically or mixing music.

Upgrading and technical nuances

The first thing to sort out is the input type, because it determines how much of your motherboard's audio quality matters. Analogue RCA or 3.5mm inputs rely on your onboard codec, and on some boards you can hear coil whine or GPU-load buzz through the speakers. Higher-end Motherboards tend to have better-isolated audio sections, but a ground loop can still creep in. Optical and USB inputs bypass the motherboard's analogue stage entirely and use the speaker's own DAC, which is often the cleaner option. The R1280DB is a good example, with optical and coaxial inputs alongside RCA.

Bluetooth is the second trap. The standard SBC codec adds latency, often 150ms or more, which is fine for music but noticeable in games and video. Speakers that support aptX variants or LDAC improve quality and sometimes latency, but your PC's Bluetooth adapter needs to support the same codec. For gaming, use a wired connection and keep Bluetooth for your phone.

Power rating is another spec to be sceptical of. RMS is continuous output, peak is marketing. A 40W RMS pair with a decent cabinet will outperform a "100W peak" budget set every time. Amp class matters too. Class D is efficient and runs cool, while Class AB designs in some Edifier models can have a slightly smoother character but run warmer and need ventilation.

If your speakers have a rear port, they behave differently against a wall. Ported bookshelf models can get boomy if jammed against a back wall, so check whether the model uses a front or rear port, and use the bass and treble knobs to compensate if you're stuck with a tight desk.

Practical things to check before buying

Measure your desk first. A typical 4-inch bookshelf speaker is roughly 140 to 150mm wide and over 230mm tall, and the depth takes it well beyond a small shelf. If you have a Monitors setup with a large stand or a dual-screen arm, make sure there's room on either side and that the speakers aren't blocked by the screens. Most Edifier speakers have magnetic shielding, but check, especially if you still keep any old CRT-style gear around.

Cabling is the next gotcha. The active speaker (with the amp) sits on one side and connects to the passive speaker via a supplied speaker cable, usually 2 to 3 metres. If your PC is far from the speaker or the layout is awkward, you may need extra length, so look at the Cables & Connectors range for RCA, optical, 3.5mm and USB leads. Confirm that your source device actually has the output you need. Many modern Computers and compact builds skip optical out, and some boards only have a single 3.5mm jack. In that case, a 3.5mm to RCA cable or a USB DAC is your answer.

Also check the plug and power brick. Edifier speakers sold locally come with Australian-compliant mains plugs, but grey imports sometimes ship with adapters. If you build in a small case, remember that audio cables running past noisy components can pick up interference, so route them away from power cables when you can. A tidy Computer Cases layout with rear cable management helps here.

Finally, think about the subwoofer. A 2.1 system needs floor or under-desk space, and you should keep it away from corners unless you want it to boom.

Brands and local warranty

Edifier is the main name here, with a lineup that spans budget through to audiophile-leaning designs. For comparison shopping, you'll also see Logitech, Creative, Audioengine, Razer and Kali Audio. Each has a different focus: Logitech and Razer are more gaming and ecosystem driven, Audioengine leans toward premium desktop hi-fi, and Kali targets studio use.

Warranty is a real consideration with powered speakers. They contain an amp, a power supply and a DAC, so there are more things that can fail than in a passive pair. Buying from an Australian retailer that works through the local distributor means you get proper support under Australian Consumer Law, and you're not paying international freight to send a 5kg speaker back to a seller overseas. Grey imports can also come with different voltage specs or plugs, so stick with local stock. Keep your invoice and the serial number somewhere you'll find them.

Frequently asked questions

Are Edifier speakers good enough for gaming?

Yes, particularly the 2.0 and 2.1 bookshelf models. Use a wired connection (USB, optical or RCA) for the lowest latency. Bluetooth is fine for casual use, but you may notice lip-sync lag in fast games.

Do I need a subwoofer, or are 2.0 speakers enough?

For a desk setup, a good 4-inch 2.0 pair gives you plenty of bass for most music and games. A subwoofer makes sense if you want deep bass for movies and electronic music, and have room to place it properly.

Will my motherboard audio be good enough?

For most people, yes, but if you hear buzzing or hiss, switch to optical or USB. That moves the digital-to-analogue conversion into the speaker or an external DAC, which avoids the noise inside the PC case.

What does RMS power mean, and how much do I need?

RMS is the continuous power the amp can deliver. For a desktop, 40 to 70W RMS is more than enough. Cabinet size and driver quality have a bigger impact on sound than raw wattage.

Can I connect Edifier speakers to a console or TV as well?

Generally yes, provided the speakers have the right input. Optical, RCA and Bluetooth models are the easiest to share between a PC and other devices, and many have a remote for switching inputs.