Collection: UPS

Which UPS do you actually need?

Most PC builders look at the VA number on the box and stop there, which is how you end up with a unit that shuts down the moment a heavy game loads. VA is apparent power. The figure that matters is watts, and on cheaper units it's often only 55 to 65 percent of the VA rating. A 1500VA unit might deliver 900W, while a 1600VA pure sine wave unit might deliver 1000W. Add up your realistic peak draw (CPU, GPU, drives, monitor) and aim to load the UPS to roughly 60 to 70 percent at most.

Entry-level units are standby (offline) designs. Mains power passes straight through, and the inverter only kicks in when the supply drops, with a transfer time of around 5 to 10 milliseconds. Most PSUs ride that out, but you get little voltage regulation and usually a simulated sine wave output.

The sweet spot is line-interactive with automatic voltage regulation (AVR). A tapped transformer boosts or trims the voltage during brownouts and surges without burning battery, which matters if your area has flaky supply. This tier is where most gaming and work PCs should land.

Enthusiast and prosumer gear moves to pure sine wave output and sometimes true online double-conversion, where the load always runs off the inverter and the transfer time is effectively zero. That's excellent for workstations, home servers and NAS boxes, but it costs more, runs hotter, and fans run constantly. For a gaming rig, the extra cost is hard to justify unless you've got expensive gear on a very dirty supply.

Technical nuances and compatibility traps

The biggest trap today is the pure sine wave versus simulated sine wave question. Modern ATX power supplies use active PFC (power factor correction). Some active PFC units behave badly on stepped-approximation output when the UPS goes to battery. You might see a hard shutdown, a buzz, or the UPS faulting on switchover. Pure sine wave removes the gamble, and it's the safe choice for any decent ATX 3.x unit from the likes of Seasonic, Corsair RMx or similar in our Power Supplies range.

Transient loads are the other catch. A high-end GPU with a 12V-2x6 connector can spike well above its rated board power for milliseconds. If your UPS is running near its limit, those spikes trip overload protection. So a rig with a flagship graphics card and a top-tier CPU really wants 1000W or more of real output, not 600W.

For benchmark families, look at the APC Back-UPS Pro series for dependable line-interactive protection in the sweet spot, and APC Smart-UPS for prosumer and small-office use. CyberPower's PFC Sinewave line (the CP1500PFCLCD style models) is a strong value pick for pure sine wave. Eaton's Ellipse and 5E ranges are solid mid-tier options, and Powershield Defender and Commander are Australian-designed lines worth a look. Online double-conversion units from APC, Eaton or CyberPower's OL series are for always-on gear.

Also think about battery chemistry. Most consumer units use sealed lead-acid batteries, which typically last three to five years before runtime tanks. Heat shortens that. Check that the battery is user-replaceable, because a unit with a swappable cartridge outlasts one that's landfill after the first battery dies.

Finally, UPS runtime is not meant to keep you gaming. At a 500W load, a typical 1500VA unit gives you only a few minutes. The goal is a clean shutdown, and USB monitoring (PowerChute, PowerPanel, or built-in Windows battery handling) lets the PC save and power down on its own.

Practical things to check before buying

Start with the physical size. A 1500VA tower can weigh 10 to 14kg thanks to the lead-acid battery, so check it'll fit under a desk or beside your computer case. Leave airflow around the vents. Cooking a UPS in a closed cabinet shortens battery life dramatically.

Check the outlets. Australian units come with a mix of IEC C13 sockets (needing a standard kettle-style lead) or three-pin AU sockets. Make sure there are enough battery-backed outlets for the PC, monitors and your router. Surge-only outlets don't hold up in a blackout. If you'll need extra IEC leads, browse Cables & Connectors.

Keep laser printers, bar heaters and vacuum cleaners off the battery outlets. Laser printers in particular pull huge inrush currents and can overload a unit instantly.

Don't forget your network. If you want internet through a blackout, plug the modem and router into the UPS. Gear from Networking or TP-Link draws only 10 to 30W, so it adds little load and runs for hours. It's also worth protecting a NAS or SSD backup drive, since sudden power loss during writes is how data gets corrupted.

Last, check for an LCD display, a USB or network management port, and a cold-start function. Audible alarms that can be muted are a mercy if your power drops at 2am.

Brands and local warranty

The reliable names in Australia are APC (Schneider Electric), CyberPower, Eaton, and Powershield, with Eaton and APC dominating the business end. All have local distribution and support.

Warranty matters more for UPS gear than most components, because batteries are consumables and the units are connected to your mains supply and your expensive hardware. Australian Consumer Law gives you guarantees that can't be waived, and a genuine local warranty means you deal with an Australian RMA process rather than shipping a 12kg brick overseas. Some brands also back their units with connected-equipment guarantees, but read the fine print, since claims usually require proof of correct installation. Buy from an authorised local retailer so your warranty is valid. Grey imports from overseas often ship with 110V-oriented hardware or lack local support.

Frequently asked questions

How many watts do I need for a gaming PC?

Add your CPU and GPU maximum power, plus about 100W for everything else, and then add 30 percent headroom. A mid-range build sits comfortably on a 1000VA to 1500VA unit with at least 700W of real output. A flagship build wants 1000W or more.

Do I need a pure sine wave UPS?

If your PSU has active PFC, which most modern ones do, pure sine wave is the safest choice. Simulated sine wave often works fine, but it's the reason for most odd switchover shutdowns.

How long will it run my PC in a blackout?

Usually only a few minutes at full gaming load, and perhaps 10 to 15 minutes at light desktop use. It's designed to give you time to save and shut down properly.

Can I plug a power board into my UPS?

You can, but don't overload it, and avoid chaining a second surge board. Plug devices straight into the UPS where possible, and never plug a laser printer in.

How often should I replace the battery?

Expect three to five years, sooner in a hot room. Most units alert you when the battery needs replacing, and a self-test every few months is worthwhile.