Collection: Monitors

Which monitor do you actually need?

Most PC builders spend weeks agonising over a CPU and GPU, then grab whatever computer monitors are on special and wonder why a brand new rig feels flat. The monitor is the part you look at for every hour of use, so it deserves a proper think. The tiers differ in more than a bigger number on the box.

Entry-level pc monitors are usually 24 to 27 inch 1080p or 1440p IPS or VA panels running 75 to 144Hz. They have basic backlights, modest contrast (roughly 1000:1 on IPS, 3000:1 or more on VA), and slow pixel transitions that cause smearing in fast games. For office work and casual play, that's fine. The sweet spot is a 27 inch 1440p panel at 144 to 240Hz with decent overdrive tuning, good sRGB coverage and adaptive sync. That's where response time, pixel density and price line up best, and a mid-range GPU can actually drive it.

Enthusiast monitors are mostly OLED (QD-OLED or WOLED) or mini-LED with hundreds of local dimming zones. OLED pixels switch in a fraction of a millisecond and produce true black, so contrast is effectively infinite. Mini-LED gets very bright for HDR but can bloom around small bright objects. Diminishing returns hit hard past 240Hz unless you play competitive shooters, and 4K at high refresh needs a serious Graphics Card / GPU to feed it. Be honest about what you play and what your GPU can push before paying for panel features you won't use.

Upgrading and technical nuances

Panel type matters more than the spec sheet suggests. IPS gives wide viewing angles and accurate colour but has a lowish native contrast and can show "IPS glow" in dark rooms. VA gives deeper blacks but can smear dark transitions. OLED fixes both but brings burn-in management, a lower full-screen brightness and sometimes slightly fuzzy text on non-standard subpixel layouts. For heavy spreadsheet or coding use, check reviews for text clarity, not just gaming numbers.

Refresh rate and response time are separate things. A 240Hz panel with poor overdrive can look worse than a well-tuned 165Hz one. Look for reviews that test real pixel transitions rather than the "1ms GtG" marketing figure, which is usually measured under best-case conditions.

Connections are a common trap. HDMI 2.1 and DisplayPort 1.4 with Display Stream Compression handle most 1440p and 4K high-refresh setups, while DisplayPort 2.1 is appearing on newer high-end panels and current-gen GPUs. Your graphics card and your monitor both need to support the same standard, or you'll fall back to a lower refresh rate or lose features like VRR at full resolution. Also confirm USB-C power delivery and KVM features if you want a one-cable laptop setup.

Good sweet-spot series to look at include LG UltraGear, Gigabyte M and AORUS series, MSI MAG, and ASUS TUF Gaming. For premium enthusiast options, look at Samsung Odyssey OLED, ASUS ROG Swift, Alienware, and MSI MPG. For colour-critical work, BenQ SW and Dell UltraSharp lines have factory calibration reports and hardware uniformity compensation that gaming panels often lack.

Practical things to check before buying

Start with desk space. A 34 inch ultrawide or a 32 inch 4K is far bigger in person than on a product page, and curved panels need extra depth. Check the stand too: many budget stands only tilt, so budget for a VESA arm if you need height or swivel. Confirm the VESA mount pattern (usually 100x100) and the weight limit of the arm.

Cabling is the next gotcha. Many monitors ship with an HDMI cable that only runs 60Hz or 120Hz, so grab a certified DisplayPort or HDMI 2.1 lead from our Cables & Connectors range and keep it short and unkinked. Cheap cables are a classic cause of black-screen flicker at high refresh rates.

Think about the rest of your system. Pushing 4K at 144Hz or running a dual-monitor setup puts steady load on your GPU, and in turn your Power Supplies and case airflow. If you're building around a new display, a pre-configured option from our Computers range can take out the guesswork. If you're going dual or triple screen, check that your GPU has enough outputs and that your Computer Cases layout lets you route cables cleanly.

For OLED, look at the burn-in warranty terms, pixel refresh routines and whether the panel has a heatsink or fan. Keep the taskbar hidden, use dark mode and don't leave static content up at full brightness all day. For HDR, a panel claiming "HDR10" without local dimming or high peak brightness is mostly a sticker, so check measured peak brightness instead. Also look at your CPU: older CPUs & Processors can bottleneck high refresh gaming no matter how good the screen is.

Brands and local warranty

Reliable names in monitors include LG, Samsung, ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte, BenQ, Dell, AOC and Philips. All have solid options, but support quality varies. Some brands offer pixel-defect policies, advance replacement, or onsite service, while others expect you to post the whole panel back at your own cost.

Genuine Australian warranty matters because a monitor is large, fragile and awkward to ship overseas. Grey imports often have no local backing, and manufacturers can refuse service if the serial isn't registered here. Australian Consumer Law also gives you rights that apply when you buy locally from an authorised reseller. Keep your invoice, register the product if the brand asks, and check the dead-pixel policy before you buy, since it differs between makers.

Frequently asked questions

Is 4K worth it for a gaming monitor?

It depends on your GPU and screen size. At 32 inches, 4K looks noticeably sharper, but you'll need a strong graphics card to hit high frame rates. At 27 inches, 1440p is often the better balance of sharpness and performance, and you can always use upscaling to ease the load.

Do I need a 240Hz monitor or is 144Hz enough?

For most players, 144 to 165Hz is already very smooth. A 240Hz or higher panel mainly helps in fast competitive shooters, and only if your system holds those frame rates consistently. Otherwise you're paying for headroom you won't see.

Will my monitor work with my GPU?

Check the ports and versions. HDMI 2.1 or DisplayPort 1.4 or newer covers most high-refresh setups, and your GPU and monitor must both support the same standard to get full resolution and refresh. Using the right cable avoids most problems.

Is OLED safe for desktop use?

Yes, with sensible habits. Use dark themes, auto-hide the taskbar, let the pixel refresh cycles run and avoid leaving static windows at full brightness. Check the manufacturer's burn-in warranty so you're covered if something goes wrong.

Should I buy a curved or flat monitor?

Curves suit ultrawides and larger panels because they keep edges within your field of view. On smaller 24 to 27 inch screens, flat is usually fine and works better for design work where straight lines matter.