Collection: Network Switch

Which network switch do you actually need?

Most PC builders overthink the switch and underthink the cabling. A network switch is just a box that moves Ethernet frames between ports, but what happens inside matters. Entry-level unmanaged gigabit switches (think TP-Link TL-SG105 or Netgear GS305 class) use a small MAC address table, shallow packet buffers and a fanless design. That is fine for a PC, console, NAS and TV. You plug things in and it works.

The sweet spot today is a 2.5GbE switch, or a gigabit switch with a couple of faster uplink ports. Current motherboards almost always ship with a 2.5GbE port, so a gigabit-only switch caps your PC at roughly 110MB/s to a NAS. A 2.5G switch lifts that to around 280MB/s over existing Cat5e or Cat6 cable, which is where SATA and hard drive NAS arrays stop being the bottleneck.

Enthusiast tiers bring 10GbE, SFP+ cages and full management. Here the fabric is genuinely different: a bigger switching capacity so every port runs flat out at once, deeper buffers to cope with a 10G-to-1G speed step-down, and VLAN, QoS and link aggregation controls. Diminishing returns hit fast. If your storage is a single SATA SSD in a NAS, 10G won't help. If you're moving large video projects between NVMe-based machines, it absolutely will.

Upgrading and technical nuances

The first thing to check is whether the switch is non-blocking. An 8-port gigabit switch should have a 16Gbps switching capacity (8 ports, full duplex). Cheap or older designs sometimes undersell this, and you notice it when several devices are busy at once.

Then look at your uplinks. A common trap is buying a 2.5G switch and connecting it to the router via a single 1G port. Your PC-to-NAS traffic stays local and fast, but anything heading to the internet or another switch is capped at gigabit. For multi-gig setups, TP-Link's Networking range includes 2.5G models such as the TL-SG105-M2 and TL-SG108-M2 alongside Omada and Jetstream lines that add VLANs and monitoring. You can browse the full TP-Link range to compare.

Smart or "easy managed" switches (TP-Link TL-SG108E style, Netgear Plus) give you VLANs, port mirroring and basic QoS at a modest price. Fully managed lines like TP-Link Jetstream, Ubiquiti UniFi, Zyxel and MikroTik CRS add Layer 3 routing, spanning tree and IGMP snooping. IGMP snooping matters if you run IPTV or multicast, since without it multicast floods every port.

On the platform side, AM5 and LGA1851 Motherboards typically include Intel or Realtek 2.5GbE. Intel controllers have the better driver track record, while some premium boards add 10GbE. If your board lacks it, a PCIe NIC works, but check the slot lane allocation first so it doesn't steal bandwidth from your NVMe drive or Graphics Cards / GPU.

Practical things to check before buying

Start with port count and add 30% headroom. Eight ports fills up quickly once you add a console, smart TV, access point and printer. Five-port switches rarely survive more than a year.

Cabling is the next gotcha. Cat5e handles 2.5G at full length and Cat6 is a safe default. For 10GBASE-T over longer runs, you want Cat6a. A cheap flat patch cable can cause silent speed drops and dropped packets. Quality Cables & Connectors are worth the extra few dollars, especially for runs behind walls or across a desk.

Heat is a real consideration. Fanless switches rely on a metal chassis as the heatsink, so give them airflow and don't bury them under a pile of gear. 10GBASE-T SFP+ modules run especially hot, often 2 to 3W each, so DAC cables or fibre are cooler and cheaper for short runs. If you're racking things near a PC, a Computer Cases with good ventilation or a dedicated shelf is better than stacking the switch on a hot tower.

If you plan to power access points or cameras, check PoE specs carefully. The total PoE budget matters more than the per-port rating. A "8-port PoE+" switch with a 60W budget can't run eight 15W devices at once. Know the difference between 802.3af (15.4W), 802.3at (30W) and 802.3bt (60W or more).

Finally, check the power supply. Some switches use an external brick, others have an internal supply. Either way, confirm it comes with an Australian plug, not a bundled adapter.

Brands and local warranty

For home and small office use, TP-Link is the volume leader with Omada and Jetstream covering budget through to business needs. Netgear is the classic alternative, with its Plus and Pro lines. Ubiquiti UniFi suits people who want one dashboard for switching, Wi-Fi and cameras. D-Link and Zyxel fill the mid range, and MikroTik is popular with tinkerers who want serious 10G SFP+ value and don't mind a steeper learning curve. Aruba Instant On and Cisco Business suit small offices.

Genuine Australian warranty matters more here than with most components. Switches run 24/7, so a failing power supply or port is a matter of when, not if, over many years. Local stock means compliance with Australian standards, a proper RCM mark, and an RMA process that doesn't involve shipping a box overseas. Grey imports sometimes lack local support and firmware assistance. For a gaming rig or a prebuilt from Computers, keeping everything with local coverage saves headaches later.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a managed switch for a home setup?

Usually not. An unmanaged or easy-smart switch covers most homes. You only need full management if you plan to run VLANs to isolate IoT devices, use link aggregation, or monitor traffic in detail.

Is a 2.5G switch worth it if my router is gigabit?

Yes, if you have local devices that can use the speed, such as a NAS or a second PC. Traffic between those devices stays on the switch and never touches the router. Internet speed stays gigabit-limited at the router, which is fine for nearly all connections.

Will my existing Cat5e cable work with 2.5G?

In most cases, yes. 2.5GBASE-T is designed to run over Cat5e up to 100 metres. 10G is the point where Cat6a becomes the safer choice for longer runs.

Can a switch reduce my gaming latency?

Not meaningfully. A decent switch adds microseconds, far below what you would ever notice. What helps is a wired connection instead of Wi-Fi, a good cable, and making sure the switch isn't being overloaded by background traffic.

How many ports should I buy?

Count your wired devices and add about 30% for growth. An 8-port switch suits most setups, and a 16-port is better if you run a home lab, multiple PCs, or lots of smart gear.