Collection: Wall Chargers

Which wall charger do you actually need?

Most PC builders spend weeks agonising over a power supply and then grab whatever charger is in the drawer for their laptop, phone and handheld. Fair enough, but a wall charger is a small power supply, and the same engineering trade-offs apply. What separates tiers is wattage, how that wattage is shared across ports, and what the internals are made of.

Entry-level chargers, usually 20W to 30W single port, suit a phone or tablet. They use a basic flyback design with silicon switching, which runs warmer and needs a bigger body for the same output. They're fine for overnight top-ups. The sweet spot for most people is a 65W to 100W GaN charger with two or three ports. Gallium nitride switches faster with less resistive loss, so the charger can be physically smaller and run cooler at the same load. At that size you can run a 14 to 16 inch ultrabook, a phone and earbuds from one brick.

Enthusiast chargers sit at 140W to 240W and are aimed at gaming laptops, mobile workstations and USB-C Monitors that deliver power back to a laptop. Diminishing returns hit hard here. A 140W charger won't charge a phone any faster than a 45W one, because the phone negotiates its own limit. Buy the wattage your biggest device needs, plus a little headroom, not the biggest number on the box.

Upgrading and technical nuances

The spec that catches people out is power splitting. A 100W three-port charger usually delivers 100W only when a single port is in use. Plug in a second device and the output might drop to something like 65W and 30W. That's a firmware-managed budget, not a fault, but it matters if you expect to run a laptop at full tilt while charging a phone.

Know the protocols too. USB Power Delivery (PD) is the universal standard, and PD 3.1 extends it to higher voltage levels for 140W and above, which depends on both the charger and the cable supporting it. PPS (Programmable Power Supply) is a PD feature that lets a device adjust voltage in small steps, and some phones, Samsung Galaxy models in particular, need it to hit their top charging speed. A charger with PD but no PPS will still charge them, just slower. Proprietary modes like Qualcomm Quick Charge are largely legacy now, so don't pay extra for them.

Good mainstream series to look for include Anker Nano and Anker Prime, UGREEN Nexode, Baseus GaN lines and Belkin BoostCharge Pro. Anker Prime and UGREEN's higher-wattage Nexode models are the premium end, with multi-port power budgets, thermal management and sometimes a display showing per-port wattage. The cheaper Nano and compact Nexode units are the sweet spot for a single laptop plus phone.

If you build your own gear, think of it like Power Supplies in a desktop: stable voltage regulation and proper protection circuitry (over-voltage, over-current, over-temperature) are what you're paying for. Cheap unbranded chargers often cut corners on exactly the parts you can't see.

Practical things to check before buying

Start with the cable, because it's the most common bottleneck. Anything above 60W requires a cable with an e-marker chip rated for 5A, and a basic phone charging cable will quietly cap you at 60W or less. Check our Cables & Connectors range and match the cable rating to the charger. For high-wattage use, a short, properly rated cable also wastes less power as heat.

Physical fit matters too. Australian Type I wall sockets are often mounted close to the skirting board or sit behind furniture, and a wide charger can block the neighbouring socket on a double powerpoint. Folding-pin designs are handy for travel but have a bigger body. If you want a desk setup, a multi-port desktop charger with a mains lead avoids the problem entirely and gives you more room for a router, switch or other Networking gear on the same power board.

Heat is the other gotcha. GaN runs cooler than silicon, but a 100W brick under sustained load will still get warm. Don't bury it under a pillow, a blanket or a pile of cables. Look for a unit with a visible compliance mark, such as the RCM mark in Australia, and an actual spec label listing each port's voltage and current options. If the label only says "fast charge" with no figures, skip it.

Last, check your actual device. Many laptops list the charging wattage on the original adapter. Matching or slightly exceeding it is ideal. Going lower can mean slow charging, or battery drain under gaming load. If you're buying for a full Computers setup or a handheld, confirm that it accepts USB-C PD input at all, since some older laptops still use barrel connectors.

Brands and local warranty

Anker, UGREEN, Belkin, Baseus and Samsung are the names we see most often, and each has a decent reputation for build quality and protection circuitry. Apple makes good chargers but they're typically priced above equivalent third-party units. TP-Link, better known for networking, also makes some charging products, and you can browse the TP-Link collection for related gear.

Genuine Australian warranty support matters more with chargers than with most accessories, because a faulty one can damage the device it powers. Australian Consumer Law also gives you guarantees for products that are not of acceptable quality, but dealing with a local retailer is far simpler than chasing an offshore marketplace seller. Grey imports and no-name listings may also skip local electrical safety compliance, which is a real risk for something that sits on a 240V outlet all day.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use a higher-wattage charger with a lower-wattage device?

Yes. The device draws only what it needs. A 100W charger will happily top up a phone at its own maximum speed, with no risk of overpowering it, as long as the charger is built to standard.

Will a USB-C charger run my gaming laptop?

Possibly, but check the laptop's supported input. Many gaming laptops need 180W or more and rely on a proprietary barrel connector. USB-C works well for ultrabooks and lighter creator machines, but a gaming laptop under full GPU load may still discharge its battery on a 100W charger.

Is GaN really better than a normal charger?

For the most part, yes. GaN transistors lose less energy as heat, so the charger can be smaller and cooler. A well-built silicon charger still works fine, but a GaN unit is usually more portable at higher wattages.

Why is my charger slower than advertised?

The usual causes are a cable that isn't rated for the wattage, a shared power budget across multiple ports, or a device that doesn't support the protocol the charger offers. Try a single port with a known-good cable first.

Is it safe to leave a charger plugged in all the time?

A quality charger with proper certification is designed for continuous use, and idle draw is tiny. Still, keep it ventilated, and replace any unit that gets unusually hot, buzzes or has damaged pins.