Collection: PC Gaming Accessories

Which PC gaming accessories do you actually need?

Most PC builders get the best results by spending on the parts that touch the screen, the thermals and the power, and keeping everything else sensible. With pc gaming accessories, the tiers differ in real engineering. On a monitor, entry-level IPS panels typically give around 1000:1 contrast with decent response times. VA panels push contrast to roughly 3000:1 but can smear in dark scenes. OLED has effectively perfect per-pixel contrast and near-instant response, but costs more and carries burn-in and brightness trade-offs. A 1440p panel at 165Hz to 180Hz is the sweet spot for most GPUs, and 240Hz and above only pays off if your frame rate can actually reach it.

Cooling follows the same pattern. A budget single-tower air cooler handles a mid-range CPU fine. Stepping up adds heatpipes, fin density and fan static pressure, which keeps boost clocks steady under sustained load. Going to a 360mm AIO mostly buys lower noise at the same temperature, not a dramatic drop in temperature. Diminishing returns hit quickly once your CPU stops being thermally limited.

Upgrading and technical nuances

Today's platforms are AM5 and Intel's LGA1851, both DDR5 and both with PCIe 5.0 lanes. For motherboards, the mainstream sweet spot is a board like an ASUS TUF Gaming, MSI MAG Tomahawk or Gigabyte AORUS Elite. These have solid VRM heatsinks and enough power stages to hold a high-end CPU at full load without thermal throttling. Premium lines mostly add more phases, extra M.2 slots and nicer I/O. Cheaper boards can run the same CPU, but their VRMs run hotter under long all-core loads.

For desktop memory, Corsair Vengeance, Kingston Fury and G.Skill Ripjaws are reliable mainstream picks. Current DDR5 gaming kits around 6000MT/s with tight CL30 timings are the sweet spot, because latency matters as much as raw bandwidth in games. Two modules beat four, since four sticks stress the memory controller and often force lower speeds.

Storage is where people overpay. A PCIe 4.0 SSD such as the Samsung 990 series, Crucial T500 or WD_BLACK SN850X has the fast random reads and DRAM cache that games and Windows care about. PCIe 5.0 drives roughly double sequential speeds, but they run hot and often need a proper heatsink to avoid throttling, and real game load times barely change.

For cooling, the Thermalright Peerless Assassin is a benchmark value air cooler, and the Arctic Liquid Freezer series is the go-to for CPU cooling when you want an AIO. Browse fans, heatsinks and cooling for case fans too. Fluid dynamic bearing fans last longer and run quieter than cheap sleeve bearings, which tend to develop noise as they age.

Power matters just as much. A modern power supply should be ATX 3.0 or 3.1 with a native 12V-2x6 connector, because it handles the brief power spikes that high-end graphics cards produce. Seasonic Focus and Corsair RMx are proven families. Check the ATX power supply range for wattage headroom, and pair your CPU and GPU choice with a unit that suits both.

Practical things to check before buying

Start with clearance. Measure your computer case for CPU cooler height, because a tall dual-tower can foul a side panel in a compact mid-tower. Tall RAM heatspreaders can also clash with the front fan on dual-tower coolers, so check the cooler's memory clearance spec. For radiators, confirm the case supports a 240mm or 360mm size at the top or front, and check that pump height won't hit your RAM or VRM heatsink.

Check GPU length and thickness as well. Many current cards are three slots thick and over 300mm long. Leave room for airflow, because a card pressed against the side panel runs hotter and louder.

On power, the 12V-2x6 connector needs to be fully seated and the cable shouldn't bend sharply near the plug. Leave at least 35mm of straight run before any bend, and use the native cable from your PSU where you can. Adapters add failure points. Quality cables and connectors such as DisplayPort 1.4 or HDMI 2.1 leads matter too, since a cheap cable can quietly cap your refresh rate or colour depth.

Don't forget networking. A wired Cat6 connection beats Wi-Fi for latency every time, but if you must go wireless, a Wi-Fi 6E or Wi-Fi 7 router from TP-Link makes a noticeable difference on congested networks. If you'd rather skip the compatibility juggling entirely, a prebuilt from Computers is a reasonable shortcut.

Brands and local warranty

Reputable names to look for include Corsair, Kingston, G.Skill, ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte, Samsung, Crucial, WD, Seasonic, Arctic, Thermalright, LG, BenQ and TP-Link. Each has strong ranges, but support quality varies, so check how a brand handles claims locally.

Genuine Australian warranty matters because the Australian Consumer Law gives you rights when a product fails, and a local importer or distributor can actually honour them. Grey imports might save a few dollars, but if a PSU or SSD dies you could be shipping it overseas and waiting weeks. A failed power supply can also take other components with it, so a local RMA path is real protection. Keep your invoice and note the warranty period before you start building.

Frequently asked questions

Is PCIe 5.0 storage worth it for gaming?

Not for most people today. Game load times depend heavily on CPU decompression and random access latency, where a good PCIe 4.0 drive is already close. PCIe 5.0 shines for large file transfers and creator work, but it runs hotter and costs more.

How much RAM and what speed should I buy?

For modern systems, 32GB of DDR5 in two modules is the practical sweet spot, and 16GB is workable for lighter gaming. Aim for around 6000MT/s with low CL timings, as faster kits often give little real gain.

Will my cooler fit with tall RAM?

Not always. Dual-tower coolers can overhang the first memory slot, so check the cooler's stated RAM clearance and your kit's height. Low-profile or compact heatspreaders avoid the issue.

Do I need an ATX 3.1 power supply?

If you have or plan a modern high-end GPU, yes. It handles power excursions better and offers a native 12V-2x6 cable, which removes adapter risk. For lower-power cards it's still sensible future-proofing.

Is a high-refresh monitor worth it if my GPU is mid-range?

Yes, within reason. A 1440p panel at 144Hz to 180Hz feels smoother even when frame rates dip, especially with adaptive sync. Chasing 360Hz only helps if your hardware can push those frames.