Collection: Monitor & Screen Accessories

Which monitor and screen accessories do you actually need?

Most PC builders spend weeks on the CPU and GPU, then plug a monitor into whatever cable was in the box and leave it on the stock stand. Monitor and screen accessories are where a good setup either comes together or quietly annoys you every day. The main categories are arms and mounts, display cables, docks and hubs, calibration tools, lighting and cleaning gear.

Arms are the clearest example of tiers. Entry-level arms use a basic spring or fixed-height pole with thinner steel, and they work fine for a light 24 inch panel. Sweet-spot arms like the Brateck and Atdec ranges use gas-spring cylinders with adjustable tension, thicker aluminium extrusions and proper cable channels. Enthusiast arms like the Ergotron LX and HX have tighter tolerances, so they hold a heavy ultrawide without creeping downward or wobbling when you type. The difference is mostly about torque. A 34 inch ultrawide pulls hard on the joint at full extension, and cheap arms flex and sag there.

Diminishing returns hit fast. If you have one standard monitor under about 8 kg, a solid mid-range single arm is plenty. Pay for the premium lines when you run heavy ultrawides, dual setups or a sit-stand desk where the arm moves constantly.

Cables, docks and the technical traps

Cables cause the most confusion. A DisplayPort cable and an HDMI cable can both fit the port and still limit what the screen does. For a high refresh rate 1440p or 4K panel, look for VESA certified DisplayPort cables, and for HDMI look for genuine Ultra High Speed certification. Under the hood, the difference is signal bandwidth and shielding. A cheap, uncertified cable may only carry enough data for 4K at 60Hz, or it may drop out when you enable HDR and variable refresh rate together. Cables from Club3D or Cable Matters, or anything in our Cables & Connectors range with clear certification, take the guesswork out.

Your source matters just as much. A modern graphics card usually has several DisplayPort outputs and one or two HDMI. Many motherboards on AM5 and LGA1851 also have video outputs for the integrated graphics in current CPUs and processors. These only work if you plug into the right place. If your monitor is plugged into the motherboard while the GPU sits idle, you'll get terrible performance and wonder why.

USB-C docks and hubs are the other big area. Single-cable USB-C or Thunderbolt docks from Kensington and Anker carry video, data and charging, but only if your laptop's USB-C port supports DisplayPort Alt Mode. A dock with 4K at 60Hz on one port might drop to 30Hz when two displays share the same bandwidth. If your dock includes Ethernet, check it against your networking gear so you aren't capping a fast connection with a slow port.

For colour work, a calibrator like the Calibrite Display series or Datacolor Spyder measures what the panel actually shows and builds a correction profile. It matters most on wide-gamut panels, which can look oversaturated without colour management. For a bit of lighting, a monitor light bar such as the BenQ ScreenBar sits on top and lights your desk without reflecting on the glass, which a desk lamp often does.

Practical things to check before you buy

Start with the VESA pattern on the back of your monitor. Most use 75x75 or 100x100mm, but some curved or ultrawide panels have a recessed mount or a plastic back that needs a spacer. Check the weight range for the arm, and remember the arm should be rated well above your monitor's weight, not just barely meeting it. A gas-spring arm rated for 2 to 9 kg won't behave well with a 1.5 kg panel, because the spring has nothing to balance against and the arm floats upward.

Then check your desk. Clamp mounts need a solid edge at least 10 to 15mm thick and no overhang lip. Chipboard or glass tops may need a reinforcing plate. Grommet mounts need a hole in the right place. Also measure the clearance behind the desk, because some arms need 80mm or more to fold fully.

For cables, measure the run. A 3 metre DisplayPort cable can struggle at high refresh rates because the signal degrades with length, so active or fibre cables are better for longer runs. If you're routing through a desk grommet, check the connector size too, since some HDMI and USB-C plugs are bulky. Your computer case matters here as well, because a case with rear I/O covers or a tight cable gap can make angled connectors the better pick. Running a full computer setup with several displays means cable management also needs planning.

Lastly, check screen cleaning products. Avoid ammonia and alcohol-heavy sprays on anti-glare coatings. A microfibre cloth with distilled water is the safest start.

Brands and local warranty

Reputable names include Ergotron, Atdec, Brateck and Kensington for arms and docks, BenQ for lighting, Calibrite and Datacolor for calibration, and Club3D and Cable Matters for cabling. For networking add-ons, TP-Link is a solid option for USB network adapters and switches that sit alongside a dock.

Warranty matters more than most people think. Under Australian Consumer Law, products must be of acceptable quality, and a retailer or manufacturer with a local presence makes that process far easier. With grey imports you could end up shipping a faulty arm or dock overseas, and mount failures can damage a monitor that costs far more than the arm. Buy from an Australian retailer who offers local support and keep your receipt.

Frequently asked questions

Will any monitor arm fit my monitor?

Not automatically. You need to match the VESA pattern, check the weight range, and confirm that the arm can handle the screen size. Ultrawide and super-ultrawide panels are particularly demanding because their width increases leverage at the joints.

Do I really need a certified DisplayPort or HDMI cable?

If you run a high refresh rate, HDR or 4K, yes. Certification means the cable has been tested for its stated bandwidth. For a basic 1080p office screen, almost any decent cable will do, but a certified one costs little more and avoids troubleshooting flickers or dropouts.

Can a USB-C dock replace my graphics card outputs?

No. A dock sends video from your source device, so it relies on that device's graphics. It's excellent for laptops, but on a desktop it's usually easier and more reliable to plug straight into the graphics card.

Is a monitor calibrator worth it for gaming?

For pure gaming, usually not, since most modern panels are decent out of the box. It's worth it for photo, video or print work where colour accuracy matters, or if you have a wide-gamut panel that looks oversaturated in standard mode.

How high should I position my monitor?

Put the top edge of the screen at or just below eye level, about an arm's length away. A good arm lets you adjust this quickly, which is the real reason to upgrade from the stock stand.