Collection: Astrotek Network Cables

Which Astrotek network cable do you actually need?

Most PC builders grab whatever patch lead is closest and wonder why a fancy 2.5GbE or 10GbE port never hits its rated speed. The category letters on the cable matter, but only up to a point. Entry-level Cat5e is rated to 100 MHz and handles gigabit comfortably. It also usually copes with 2.5GbE over typical home runs, though that sits outside its formal rating. Cat6 lifts the rating to 250 MHz and adds tighter twist rates plus often an internal spline, which cuts crosstalk between pairs. That is the sweet spot for most households. Cat6a doubles the bandwidth to 500 MHz and holds 10GbE over a full 100 metres, which is why it is the sensible pick for in-wall runs or a workstation that talks to a NAS.

Cat8 is rated to 2000 MHz for 25 and 40GbE, but only up to 30 metres, and it is built with heavy shielding on every pair plus an overall braid. That helps in a dense server rack with lots of electrical noise. In a home office it is expensive overkill, because your switch, router and network card will not use that headroom. The diminishing returns kick in hard after Cat6a. Spend the extra on a better switch from the Networking range instead.

Upgrading and technical nuances

The cable only matters if every link in the chain can use it. Check what your Motherboards actually offer. Many AM5 and LGA1851 boards from series like ASUS TUF Gaming, MSI MAG Tomahawk and Gigabyte AORUS ship with 2.5GbE as standard, while premium boards often add 5GbE or 10GbE. A 2.5GbE port on a Cat5e lead into a gigabit switch still runs at gigabit, so upgrade the switch or router first. A TP-Link multi-gig switch is a common way to unlock the faster port without spending enterprise money.

Construction is where cheaper leads cut corners. Solid copper conductors in 23 or 24 AWG hold up well and run cool. Copper-clad aluminium (CCA) is lighter and cheaper, but it has higher resistance, is brittle when flexed and handles PoE poorly because it heats up. For patch leads, stranded pure copper is more flexible and is the right choice. Solid copper suits permanent in-wall runs. If a lead does not state its conductor material, assume the worst.

Shielding is the other trade-off. UTP is unshielded, thin and flexible, and it is perfectly fine for most homes. F/UTP or S/FTP adds foil or braid to fight interference from power cables, which is useful behind a rack or alongside a PSU loom. Shielding only works if the connectors are metal and grounded at both ends, otherwise it can behave like an antenna and do nothing helpful. Cat7 is a bit of a marketing label too. It is not recognised for standard RJ45 use, so most Cat7 patch leads are really Cat6a-class cables with better shielding.

If you move big files between a desktop and a NAS, the bottleneck is usually the drives, not the wire. A fast NVMe unit from the Solid State Drives (SSD) range helps more than Cat8 ever will once you are past gigabit.

Practical things to check before you buy

Length comes first. Buy slightly longer than you think you need, but not by a lot. Excess cable coiled behind a desk adds clutter and, with unshielded leads, can pick up interference from nearby power bricks. Measure the actual route, including the vertical run down the back of a desk or inside a case.

Connector boot and clip design matter more than people expect. Snagless boots protect the latch, but chunky shielded Cat6a or Cat8 boots can be too wide for tightly packed switch ports or the stacked I/O on some boards. Flat cables look tidy under carpet or along skirting but usually have worse crosstalk performance, so keep those for short hops and not for 10GbE links.

Jacket material is a safety point. Standard PVC is fine for patch leads. LSZH (low smoke zero halogen) is better for commercial installs and enclosed spaces. For in-wall work, use the correct solid-core cable and have a licensed cabler terminate it, since Australian rules around cabling registration are strict.

Think about your build too. Running a lead through a rear grommet in a modern chassis from the Computer Cases range is usually easy, but check the rear I/O area for clearance around a thick shielded boot. If you are buying a pre-built from Computers, look at what port speeds it has before choosing a cable. For other leads in the same order, browse Cables & Connectors.

If you are running PoE for access points or cameras, pick pure copper cable. CCA is the usual culprit behind dropouts on longer PoE runs.

Brands and local warranty

Astrotek is the main name in this category, and it is worth looking at its range of Cat5e, Cat6 and Cat6a patch leads, bulk cable and the faster shielded options. Alongside it you will see TP-Link for switches and routers, plus well-known cabling names like Ubiquiti, Belkin, Cable Matters and Ugreen. For serious structured cabling, brands like Cat6a-certified bulk cable from commercial suppliers are worth the extra.

Cables rarely fail, but when they do it is usually from a dodgy crimp, a bent latch or a poor-quality batch. Local warranty support means you can swap a faulty lead without shipping overseas and arguing about it. Australian stock also tends to be properly tested against local standards, which matters for PoE gear and anything that stays powered long term. Keep your receipt and buy from a retailer who actually handles returns locally.

Frequently asked questions

Is Cat6 good enough for a gaming PC?

Yes. Gaming traffic is tiny, and what matters is a stable connection with low packet loss. A decent Cat5e or Cat6 lead gives you the same latency as Cat8. Wired will beat Wi-Fi for consistency, and that is where the real gain is.

Do I need Cat6a for 10GbE?

Cat6 works for 10GbE up to about 55 metres in good conditions. Cat6a is the safer choice for longer runs, noisy environments, or if you want to avoid retrofitting later. For a short desk-to-switch lead, Cat6 is usually fine.

Will a better cable make my internet faster?

Only if your old cable was faulty or limited by its rating. If your NBN plan is 100 or 250 Mbps, even Cat5e is overkill. For faster plans or a multi-gig LAN, check the router, switch and network card before blaming the lead.

Is flat cable worse than round?

Usually, yes. Flat leads tend to have less twist and weaker crosstalk control. They are fine for short, tidy hops and for gigabit, but avoid them for demanding 10GbE links.

Should I buy shielded or unshielded?

For most homes, unshielded Cat6 or Cat6a is fine. Choose shielded when running alongside power cables, in a rack, or in an electrically noisy space, and make sure the whole path is properly grounded.