Collection: TP-Link Hubs & Switches

Which TP-Link hub or switch do you actually need?

Most PC builders asking about TP-Link hubs and switches are really asking one question: what speed and how many ports? First, the hub bit. True hubs are basically extinct. A hub repeats every packet out of every port, so all devices share one collision domain and bandwidth. A switch learns MAC addresses and forwards traffic only to the port that needs it, which is why every current TP-Link product in this category is a switch, even if some listings still say "hub".

Entry tier is the unmanaged Gigabit box, like the TL-SG105 or TL-SG108 families. They are plug and play, fanless and cheap. Under the hood they use store-and-forward switching with a modest MAC table and small packet buffers. That is fine for a PC, console, NAS and smart TV, but a few devices hammering the uplink at once can cause buffer drops.

The sweet spot is the Easy Smart tier, such as the TL-SG108E or TL-SG108PE. You get VLANs, port mirroring, QoS and link aggregation for not much more money. Worth it if you want to isolate IoT gear or prioritise gaming traffic.

Enthusiast tier is Omada and JetStream, like the SG2008P or SG3210X-M2. You get Layer 2+ or Layer 3 features, bigger buffers, higher PoE budgets and central management. Diminishing returns hit hard here for most homes, because a managed switch does not make your internet faster. It gives control and visibility.

Upgrading and technical nuances

Port speed is the main upgrade lever. Gigabit tops out around 110 MB/s real world, 2.5GbE around 280 MB/s, and 10GbE around 1,100 MB/s. Latency is nearly identical across them on a LAN, so the gain is bandwidth, which matters for NAS transfers, backups and moving big game libraries or video projects. If your NAS uses fast Solid State Drives (SSD), a Gigabit link becomes the bottleneck long before the drives do.

Check your endpoints first. Many Motherboards on AM5 and LGA1851 now ship with 2.5GbE onboard, usually Intel I225/I226 or Realtek 8125 controllers. A 2.5G switch like the TL-SG105-M2 or SG108-M2 lets those ports run at full speed without a big spend. The 10G tier, such as the TL-SX105 or Omada SX series, makes sense when a workstation and NAS both have 10G NICs. A 10G card needs PCIe lanes, so check your board's spare slot and how it shares lanes with M.2 storage and your Graphics Cards / GPU.

Another trap is the uplink. A switch with eight 2.5G ports and a Gigabit router link still has all clients sharing that single Gigabit path to the internet. That is usually fine for NBN, but local traffic between devices on the switch stays at full speed. Also be wary of cheap switches advertising "10G" on SFP+ only. You will need DAC cables or modules, and RJ45 10G modules run hot.

Managed features add complexity. If you buy Omada gear, it pairs best with Omada access points and gateways. Mixed setups work, but you lose the single-pane management that justifies the premium. You can browse the wider Networking range to match routers and access points.

Practical things to check before buying

Cabling comes first. Cat5e handles Gigabit and usually 2.5G on short runs. For 10G, go Cat6a for reliable runs, or Cat6 for short ones. Sort out patch leads from our Cables & Connectors range rather than reusing mystery cables from the back of a drawer. A dodgy cable is the number one cause of "my 2.5G port negotiates at 100 Mbps".

If you want PoE for cameras or access points, check the total PoE budget, not just the port count. A switch labelled 8-port PoE+ might only supply 62 W total, which three or four access points and a camera can exhaust fast. Confirm the standard too: 802.3af is 15.4 W, 802.3at is 30 W, and 802.3bt goes higher for demanding devices.

Heat and size matter. Most small switches are fanless with a metal case that acts as the heatsink, so give them airflow and don't bury them under a router. Rackmount Omada models often include fans, which can be audible in a home office. If you are putting one inside a Computer Cases build, such as a home server, keep it away from hot exhaust, and check airflow using the Fans, Heatsinks & Cooling range if needed.

Power is simple but often overlooked. Most use an external adaptor, while rackmount models use an internal supply. If you are running a home lab or NAS on a UPS, add the switch to the load calculation alongside your Power Supplies. Finally, check whether you need wall mounting, desktop feet or rack ears, and whether you have enough spare ports for future growth. Buy one size up from what you count today.

Brands and local warranty

TP-Link is the value leader for home and small office switching, with a wide spread from basic desktop units to Omada business gear. Netgear, Ubiquiti UniFi, D-Link, Zyxel, MikroTik and Aruba Instant On are all credible alternatives. Ubiquiti and Omada suit people who want a managed ecosystem, while Netgear's unmanaged ranges are solid and widely stocked.

Buy through an Australian retailer so the warranty is handled locally. Grey imports can have different power adaptors, missing local support and a painful RMA process. In Australia, Consumer Law guarantees apply on top of the manufacturer warranty, and TP-Link terms vary by product line, so check the warranty period listed on the product page. If you are building a whole setup, our Computers and Monitors ranges can sit alongside it.

Frequently asked questions

Is a switch better than a hub?

Yes, in every practical way. A switch sends traffic only where it needs to go, while a hub broadcasts it everywhere and shares the bandwidth. Any modern use case should use a switch.

Do I need a managed switch for gaming?

No. A Gigabit unmanaged or Easy Smart switch will not add latency you can notice. Managed features only help if you want VLANs, QoS or detailed monitoring.

Will a 2.5G switch work with my Gigabit devices?

Yes. Ports auto-negotiate, so Gigabit devices run at Gigabit and 2.5G devices run at 2.5G. Just use decent cabling, because bad cables are the usual reason a link falls back to a slower speed.

Is 10G worth it for a home network?

Only if both ends can use it, for example a workstation and a NAS with fast storage. For general browsing and streaming it adds nothing. For big file transfers it makes a massive difference.

Can I use a PoE switch with non-PoE devices?

Yes. Standards-compliant PoE switches only send power to devices that request it, so ordinary PCs and consoles are safe on the same switch.