Collection: Cables & Connectors

Which cables and connectors do you actually need?

Most PC builders only think about cables when something won't plug in, but the gap between tiers is real engineering. Entry-level cables typically use thinner conductors (often 20 to 22AWG on extensions), cheaper PVC insulation and looser-tolerance connector housings. For a 150W GPU or a monitor at 1080p that's fine. At the sweet spot you get 18AWG or 16AWG wire on high-current runs, properly crimped terminals and, for video, cables that carry an actual certification rather than a "supports 4K" sticker. Enthusiast cables (sleeved extensions, custom-length sets, braided looms) mostly add looks and routing control. Electrically they match a good sweet-spot cable, so that's where diminishing returns kick in.

The exceptions are high-bandwidth video and high-wattage power. A passive DisplayPort or HDMI cable that's out of spec will cause black screens, sparkling pixels or a refresh rate that mysteriously caps out. A poorly made GPU power cable runs warm under sustained load because of higher resistance at each crimp. Spend your money there, and buy plain, well-made cables for everything else.

Upgrading and technical nuances

For video, match the cable to your Monitors and GPU. DisplayPort 1.4 handles 1440p at very high refresh rates and 4K at 144Hz with compression. Higher-bandwidth setups, such as 4K at 240Hz or ultra-wide panels, want a cable certified for DisplayPort 2.1 (look for DP80 branding). For HDMI 2.1 features like 4K 120Hz on a TV, you need a cable labelled Ultra High Speed. A cable that says "HDMI 2.1" with no certification is a gamble.

Power is where platform generation matters. Modern ATX 3.0 and 3.1 Power Supplies ship with a native 12V-2x6 cable for current Graphics Cards / GPU. Use that native cable if you can. The connector is rated for high continuous current through small pins, so full seating and gentle bends matter far more than wire fashion. Adapters that split four 8-pin plugs into one 12V-2x6 work, but each extra joint is another point of resistance. If you're browsing the ATX Power Supply range, check that the unit includes the connectors your board and GPU need, including dual EPS 8-pin for high-end AM5 and LGA1851 boards.

The big trap is modular cable compatibility. PSU-side pinouts are not standardised between brands, and sometimes not between product lines from the same brand. A Corsair Type 4 cable on a Seasonic Focus unit can fry components. Only use cables made for your exact PSU model, or from a reputable maker listing your specific unit. Lines like Corsair RMx, Seasonic Focus and be quiet! Straight Power all have their own cable ecosystems.

For networking, Cat5e handles gigabit and usually 2.5GbE over typical home runs. Cat6 is the sensible default for new runs. Cat6a is worth it when you're planning 10GbE over longer distances, since Cat6 only manages it to about 55 metres. Pair them with Networking gear from TP-Link or Ubiquiti and you won't be limited by the cable.

Internally, USB 3.2 Gen 2 front-panel headers, USB-C front connectors and ARGB or PWM fan headers all use different plugs. Check your Motherboards spec sheet before buying a splitter or hub. Mixing 5V ARGB with 12V RGB headers will cook LEDs instantly.

Practical things to check before you buy

Length is the most common mistake. Measure from the PSU shroud to the GPU socket and to the top-edge EPS connector, because many Computer Cases have the PSU at the bottom and the CPU power header in the top corner. Standard EPS cables can be tight in a full tower. Extensions add length, but a daisy-chain of three joins is a poor idea.

Check side-panel clearance. Thick 12V-2x6 cables with right-angle connectors help in shallow cases, but a tempered glass panel pushing against a bent cable is a real risk. Leave room for a straight run of roughly 35mm before any bend at the GPU. Rear-connector motherboards and cases designed for them make this much easier.

For heat, keep cables clear of exhaust paths and away from CPU Cooling heatsinks and fan blades. Zip ties should be snug, not crushing. If you're running multiple Fans, Heatsinks & Cooling products, count your headers, because a splitter shares the header's amperage limit, typically 1A to 2A per header.

Check connector type on Solid State Drives (SSD) too. NVMe drives need no cable at all, but SATA SSDs need both a data cable and a SATA power lead, and some compact PSU cable sets only include a couple of them.

Finally, inspect everything on arrival. Look for bent pins, loose crimps and dented housings. Do a firm click-test on each connector, because most failures come from partial seating rather than defective cables.

Brands and local warranty

For PSU-matched cables, stick with Corsair, Seasonic, be quiet!, Cooler Master and Silverstone. For video and USB, Cable Matters, Ugreen, Belkin, Club3D and StarTech are dependable. CableMod is well known for custom sets, though for high-power GPU adapters it's worth reading current reviews and checking compatibility notes closely before you buy.

Australian warranty support matters more than most people expect. Under Australian Consumer Law, goods must be of acceptable quality regardless of the manufacturer's stated terms. Buying through a local retailer means a failed cable or PSU lead gets sorted by someone here, rather than a grey-import seller overseas who won't reply. For cables that carry real current, local support also matters if a fault damages another part, because you want a paper trail and a business you can actually contact.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use a cable from an old power supply on a new one?

Generally no. Modular pinouts differ between brands and even between model families, and the wrong cable can send voltage to the wrong pin. Use only cables made for your exact PSU model.

Do I need a special cable for a high-refresh monitor?

Often yes. A cable bundled with a cheap monitor may cap at lower bandwidth. For high refresh rates at 1440p or 4K, use a certified DisplayPort cable, or a certified Ultra High Speed HDMI cable if you're using HDMI.

Is a native 12V-2x6 cable better than an adapter?

Yes, when your PSU supplies one. It has fewer joins and less resistance, and it's designed for the PSU's own power rails. Adapters are fine when you have no alternative, but seat them fully and avoid sharp bends.

Does Cat6a make my internet faster?

Not on its own. Your speed is capped by your plan, router and switch. Cat6a only helps when you're running 10GbE over longer distances or want future-proofing inside walls.

Are sleeved cables worth the money?

Only for looks and tidier routing. Electrically, a good standard cable matches a good sleeved one. Buy sleeved sets for visible builds, but don't expect any performance gain.